The 1,000-kilometer walking pilgrimage I did in Japan after my divorce

When you hike in the wilderness of Japan, you don't have to worry about encountering dangerous wildlife, such as bears or snakes. What I didn't expect was the danger posed by humans.<br><br>I made the solo trip in October 2022. It was a time of great change in my life. The day before the trip, my wife of 10 years and I divorced. I was emotionally and mentally exhausted. <br><br>The trip I took was a 1,000-kilometer walking pilgrimage called "The Henro," or more formally, the "Shikoku Junrei." The name "Henro" translates to "pilgrim," and "Shikoku Junrei" roughly means "Shikoku Pilgrimage of the 88 Holy Temples." <br><br>The Henro trail is often denied the title of a hiking trail by the Japanese. While Americans think of a hiking trail as dirt paths through a wilderness filled with mountains and rivers, the Japanese consider a walking tour of cities and temples a more suitable name. <br><br>The Henro Pilgrimage, known as the "O-Henro San" by the Japanese, was popularized by a holy Buddhist priest named Kukai (also known as Kobo Daishi). According to legend, Kukai discovered the island of Shikoku and built a network of roads, temples, and inns needed for the journey. <br><br>I've always been fascinated by walking pilgrimages. In 2018, I walked across Spain on the 800-kilometer Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. But the Henro was a completely different experience. <br><br>Over 90% of the trail runs on pavement, with the rest consisting of dirt paths and hiking trails. The terrain can be challenging, with mountains and hills that require constant walking up and down. <br><br>But the Henro was built for walkers of all abilities and income levels. It is possible to walk the entire distance on pavement if desired. I personally enjoyed the diversity of road surfaces and elevations - after several hundred kilometers walking on pavement, the dirt paths and trails were a welcome change of pace. <br><br>The trail is built for walkers of all income levels as well. At the end of each day, there are two options for accommodations: either stay in a hotel at a cost of $60 for a night, or stay in a free "Zenkonyado" for free. <br><br>However, I quickly discovered that not everyone on the road was kind. The first Zenkonyado I stayed at was in the town of Kanonji. The gentleman who ran the facility was named Mr. Tani. Like many Japanese people, he was very respectful and polite. But he issued me a stern warning: Always be careful of traffic, especially on narrow streets without pedestrian sidewalks. The Japanese drive on the left side of the road, which is different from the United States where we drive on the right side. <br><br>The second day of walking was more difficult than the first, as the weather turned cold and rainy. It was a bad combination for a foreigner walking on the wrong side of the road. I was a horrible navigator because I continued to look in the wrong direction for traffic. <br><br>The Japanese are generally a respectful and polite people, but there is one thing that makes them angry. As I was walking on the right side of the road instead of the left, several cars beeped their horns at me in a very aggressive way. I knew I was doing something wrong, but didn't know what it was. <br><br>In the city of Kotohira, I encountered my first angry pedestrian. I was walking in the middle of the road where there was no sidewalk, which is perfectly legal in Japan. An elderly gentleman approached me and scolded me for walking on the wrong side of the road. <br><br>That evening, I stayed at a Zenkonyado in the town of Sho-man. It was run by a lady named Taiko-san. A few hours after I finished dinner, she approached me with a look of concern on her face. <br><br>"I'm sorry to tell you this, but we've been told it is not safe for you to walk by yourself. There is a local man who is angry with you." <br><br>"What?" I replied. "I have no idea what you're talking about." <br><br>"When you were in Kotohira, you walked in the middle of the street. An elderly gentleman approached you and scolded you for it. He called me this morning warning me it was dangerous for you to walk by yourself." <br><br>"Is there a danger of him physically attacking me?" <br><br>"Yes," Taiko-san replied. "He's an eccentric person and we're worried about your safety. You take a bus to the next city." <br><br>I was amazed. I had no idea my innocent mistake of walking on the wrong side of the road could create so much drama and trauma. <br><br>The small city of Awa Ikeda was where I encountered my next angry local. My clothing was drenched from walking in the rain. I stopped at a dry cleaner to dry my clothes. When I walked in the door, all of the employees stopped what they were doing and stared at me. I asked the lady at the counter if she could dry my clothes, but she refused. <br><br>"Why won't you dry my clothes?" <br><br>"Because you look homeless." <br><br>"I'm not homeless. I'm walking a pilgrimage called the Shikoku Junrei. That's why my clothes look like rags." <br><br>"I've lived in this city my whole life. I don't know anything about a walking pilgrimage." <br><br>"Well," I replied, "now you know something new."<br><br>I continued walking in the rain, and eventually reached the city of Tobe. There I met a very kind lady named Yumi. I explained my situation to her, including my divorce and my encounters with angry Japanese people. <br><br>After a long discussion about life, she said, "I think I know what your problem is. You don't know how to bow properly." <br><br>"I don't know how to bow properly?" <br><br>"Japanese people place a high emphasis on respect. Bowing is an important way to show deference to others and get respect in return. I will teach you how to bow properly, and things will improve for you." <br><br>I spent an hour learning how to bow properly from Yumi. And you know what? After I learned how to bow like a Japanese person, nobody beamed their high beams at me, nobody honked their horn at me, and people were generally more friendly to me. <br><br>I continued walking on the Henro trail for 52 days. While it was a difficult and challenging experience, it taught me many things about life. And I discovered walking long distances is a great way to heal a broken heart.<br><br>&#x200B;